"Dutch Speed Bicycle"
recumbent
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My "Dutch Speed Bicycle" recumbent |
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Project. I already have a recumbent. It is a M5, a 26/20 model with an under seat steering. It is very nimble and I like to ride it very much. I wished to ride a recumbent with an over seat steering to know others feelings. It would have big tyres too. As I am retired I found the time to assemble this bike: the Dutch Speed Bicycle, and I did it with a great pleasure because the kit is beautiful and well designed. Result. I have a very stable and comfortable bike but a bit heavy. It matches what I expected: a versatile bike for someone who is not attracted by top speeds. It is a recumbent to make my friends try without any fear too. | ||
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Qualities and faults of the Dutch Speed Bicycle recumbent I built. It is a good value for the price: about 1/3 of the price of a comparable recumbent but it weights from 20 to 22 kg instead of 15 to 18 kg for the same gear. Its structure is solid and the kit is well conceived. Most of the faults are due to the parts I brought myself:  the rear wheel ball bearings, a MTB wheel, are worn and the wheel do not turn freely; the three lengths of chain are not in good condition, are coming from different manufacturers and have not exactly the same size; the handle of the rear derailer is worn out too; | |
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the handlebar shape does not allow an absolutely ergonomic fitting but it remains bearable;
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the rear brake, a cantilever one, is not so powerful as the front V-brake; I did not fit the bike with a front derailer, this limits the use of the recumbent. About the kit itself I think that the foam on the seat is too thick, change the shape of the seat and, at the beginning, make a feeling of instability. | |
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Troubles in assembling, adaptations and solutions. I lost much of the time searching spare parts as they were needed. It is a matter of planning and the nearest bike shop is 40 km far away from home, then... I was not able to inventory in advance all the parts I had to buy : length of the cables, housings, etc. The condition of the donor bike is really as crucial as it is written in the instructions manual. I bought an used and cheap MTB and: I could not take the freewheel apart because I have not the right puller, the bearings are worn out and have to be changed. I shall buy a new wheel soon; | |
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the crankshaft length is only 110 mm instead of the 115 mm required. I bought a new crankshaft from the same manufacturer and at the right size but this time it was too big or it was not the same threading and I cannot fit it. One purchase for nothing! The only solution I found was to bent the sides of the stand inside to get 2,5 mm each side. I am not really proud of it but it works;
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I could not disconnect the right crank and I had to saw it. Then I bought a used aluminium crank set, a Suntour 42x34x24. On this crank set you cannot take apart or change the chain rings; anyway I have no front derailer because the one from the MTB does not match the kit. Thus my bike is a 3x7 and not a 21 speed;
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the rear frame is aluminium built. I was afraid that the rubbing of the steel spring against the seat tube would make a hole in it. I put a bent large washer between the frame and the spring;
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the handlebar stems of the kit and the MTB did not match. I had to buy an adaptor to fit an ahead set on the head tube of the kit. It is easy to find in the right diameter;
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the threaded column of the front fork is too high and there is a gap between the notched washer and the locknut just above it. Thus you cannot tighten the headset. A steering ring, 4 mm high, suits for this situation. Easy to find in any bike shop but they often come by four;
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the chain was rubbing on the connexion of the two frames when it was on the small sprockets, 13 and 15 teeth. J. BOL gave me the advice to grind or to file a 2 or 3 mm notch on the support. This works very well. He also sent me a few yellow paint free for the retouch. Thanks Jurriaan!
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it is difficult to use a jigsaw to cut the seat because its sole does not always apply very well to the concavity of the plywood. Maybe the work would be cleaner and better if the shape was drawn on the underside of the seat. It is convex in almost every part. Finally To choose a used MTB to turn it into a recumbent is not apparently the best solution: there are too many surprises coming from different standards and from the worn out of the parts. Yet I did it and for about 650 euro, some hours of work (not measured) and some hours of thought. Now I have a beautiful recumbent. It is pleasant and easy to ride. I intend to still change or fit a few parts but the result is already fully satisfactory. This recumbent, the Dutch Speed Bicycle, could be more quick and more agile with a lighter frame, thinner rims and more expensive components, but for me it is not the philosophy of the kit. I have other bikes to go elsewhere, faster and further. | |
